Monday, 10 December 2012

My Final Toile

It's Finished!
 
 

When I first got the brief change in the first week, I thought I would find this project not as enjoyable as the summer project, but as the project went on it got me more excited about it. I think if I was doing my designs again and had the chance to make the dress again, I would make it differently because I feel that it doesn’t fit a unique identity as much as I’d have liked. I am glad I had the chance to make my toile again, I feel much more confident in my sewing and the dress itself, it is much more professional than the original toile and I now know how to put a lining in properly.

My First toile had a few faults with it, which I thought at the time, it’s the toile and I will make sure it is perfect on the real garment. But the toile was too small, it didn’t fit on the size 10 mannequin or the model that I had chosen who fits my customer profile perfectly, so I needed to remake the patterns and the dress. I made my patterns to a size 12 block and when sewing I made sure all my seams were 1cm, I measured them all. I think doing that gave me a lot more confidence in my sewing, taking more time over the sewing didn’t make me stress as much, and I am much happier with the final piece. Re doing the pattern piece also gave me the chance to sort my hem out, in my first master draft I didn’t measure accurately when adding flare that the side seams were the same length, so when I did my patterns again I made sure that the side seams were going to fit.

This also gave me the chance to adapt my gathers again, this time I added a bit more flare into the side panels, because the fabric I will be using isn’t as strong as calico so the gathers won’t be as proponent. Also when I was making my toile I realised I had traced a pattern piece off wrong, I had trace the original neckline off instead of the adapted version, so my lining was too small for my outer dress, so I cut the neck line out before carrying on, I shall take more time with tracing off in the future.

In conclusion, I feel that I have learnt a lot from this module, a different way to sew a zip in, how to time manage myself and sewing better so that I don’t get stressed, and so that I can feel more confident in my work.

 

Saturday, 8 December 2012

Laser Cutter

I thought it would be really cool if I made a care label for the dress I am making, although it is only the toile, I wanted to have a go on the Laser Cutter so I thought it would be a cool idea if I mixed the two ideas together.
So I made My care label on Illustrator;
I then had to make sure all the lines were in paths, save it as an early edition of adobe Illustrator, because the programme, Ethos, isn't as clever as Adobe yet. So I did that, saved it all in Ethos, went over to the Markeaton Street sheds and used the laser cutter, it was so cool. Unfurtunatly I don't have a photo of that yet!

Tuesday, 4 December 2012

My Typography

I got a graphics tablet for my birthday, I was so happy! Best tool for CAD I could ever use, so i have been playing around with it, I did a bit of my own typography, which I have used for my module I am currently doing.
The typography I used for my CV

This page I did all the text, and my handwriting is awful, so proves how good the graphics tablets are, and how much editing I did! I also drew the cupcake!

Friday, 30 November 2012

Trick of the Trade

When I am designing and I have a few that I like, I will then take that design and do some developments, these are quick sketches that you change ever so slightly, so to make it easier for myself I make a template and print loads of pages out and then scribble on them, abit like this one;
It makes designing a lot easier, give it ago! I used Illustrator to make the template, then copied it into Photoshop and pasted it 4 times. :)

Sunday, 25 November 2012

Cover Letter

(Your Details)
Miss J. Horton

86 Monk Street

DE22 3QB

07858 017879

jesshorton@hotmail.co.uk
(The Company/Employers Details)
Marek Stave (Studio Manager)

Tessa Edwards

contact@tessaedwards.co.uk
(The Date)
29th November 2012
(The Employers Name)
Dear Mr Stave,

                This letter contains my CV, as I feel that I have the experience and skills you are looking for to fill your Fashion Studio Assistant Intern role. I am a creative and ambitious student that is interested in fashion design and has a contemporary style, always looking for the next new style. Not only this but I have great organisational skills and time management, from being our courses University Representative and working in retail as sales assistants and a supervisor over the past 4 years. I have also had experience in a studio before, being a wardrobe assistant in a small pantomime, meant I had to work closely with the costume designers in the studio.

I feel that working for you in the Tessa Edwards brand will give me more opportunities to express myself and learn more about the industry and professionalism. It would be a great opportunity for both, you as a company and I as an intern.

I would like to discuss the opportunity of being an intern for you further; you can contact me on (phonenumber) on by email at, jesshorton@hotmail.co.uk.

Hope to hear from you soon,

Sincerely ,

 (Signature)

 

Jessica Horton

Thursday, 15 November 2012

DPP Evening


 

Walking into a room full of second year students eager to hear how the thirds years year out in industry went. First up was Jess Brown, a Graduate from 2012; a success story as she now works for Crystal Martin International. Crystal Martin is a supplier for M&S, Next, Mothercare and GAP, and Jess is the Nightwear Design Assistant; she designs the nightwear for M&S Classic range, or in Jess’ words “the granny nighties”, and the character PJs. She does the research, sources the trimmings and fabrics and then gets to develop the designs.

So Jess then started telling us about her year out which was from April 09 to June 10. She was telling us that she didn’t know that she was going to take the year out until she found out she got a nine month placement at John Lewis, in London. While she was there she worked on the design team, doing Lingerie and Swimwear from Monday to Wednesday and the second half of the week she helped out on the Women’s Collection. She got paid for her work; she said it defiantly helped with living in London.

When her placement at John Lewis finished in Dec 09 she then went onto do a placement at Young Ideas which is did cut short, because she felt that she had gotten all she could out of the company.  She worked there full time, Monday to Friday, 9 till 5.30; this did help Jess out, money wise, the placement was in Derby so she didn’t have to travel far, and she was paid £400 a month. Jess was in charge of the website, maintaining it by taking photos of the stock and uploading them onto the website and writing a little description about each garment. I can imagine that doing 38 hours a week could get rather tedious. So she left in May of that year, a month early. For her last month of the DPP she worked as a Studio Assistant for Native Clothing, which is Based in Nottingham, not to0 far for Jess to travel again, keeping costs down so that she could save her money for her third year collection. At Native Clothing her travel expenses were paid and she got free samples of the clothes that they made! That’s so cool! The company was a supplier to big shops in the UK, like Topshop, River Island and ASOS. They designed and then made up the design in the same day, they then had it sent out to the Head Offices Buying teams. The speed of that work, it must have been like a blur to Jess!

The DPP was a great experience for Jess, it definatly helped her out for her final year of University, and that amazing collection she made. The year’s experience helped her to get work straight after she graduated. A roar of claps for Jess at the end of her presentation, whoever was to follow must have been nervous; the flicking of pages to see who was up next. A talk from Louise, telling us about the DPP.

First up of the third years was lucky girl Emma Henson; she did 3 placements throughout the year. Her first was placement was 4 weeks long at a company that designs Baby and Children’s Wear, Natures Purest. Emma helped design the garments that would then be distributed to up to 400 retail stores. The stores sell at least 10 to 20 of Natures Purest designs. Whilst on her placement she experienced working on the shop floor selling the designs and interacting with the customers. This placement was unpaid, but being based in Leicestershire, she didn’t rack up a huge train bill. Emma’s next placement she didn’t enjoy too much, meaning she only stayed there for 10 weeks rather than the year that she planned. This placement was design and wholesale for Christies by Design, she worked from 8 till 5 each day; I wouldn’t be awake to get to work for that time, tell me how you did it Emma! Although you did get paid. The company Christies by Design supplied stock to George and Debenhams, that’s quite a diverse range, Debenhams being high end High Street and George being a Supermarket range, I’d be interested to know whether similar things where supplied to both stores or whether there was a huge difference in the designs. 

So Emma’s last placement was a Burleigh Community College, quite a different place of work there, going from designing to teaching 11 to 18 year olds taking them through there GCSE’s and A-levels. Working 11-4 two days a week, I would be living the life!

Kayliegh Parks, you’re up next, with some big placements under your belt, looks like you’ve had a busy but interesting year.  Her first placement was 6 weeks long at Beaumont Brides, she worked 9 til 5 days and was unpaid. But with learning about bespoke dress making, I wouldn’t mind being unpaid. The shop is in Tamworth so is a 20 minute train journey from Derby, not too far. Whilst she was there she was taught about the pattern cutting, the particular ways that they do it, manufacturing, she said her sewing has improved a lot from doing this placement, and was needed for her next placement! She had fun in the store doing customer consultations and fitting the dresses to the brides and other various important people at the wedding.

The next placement, the BIG ONE, Alexander McQueen, I can understand why she wanted to go there, I would like to too, just for the experience; I was talking to Kayleigh after the presentation, she said she was so busy working there that she was always tired, and who wouldn’t be working from 8 to midnight every day and then coming home writing her bit for the DPP she was exhausted! She said it’s good for you though, it makes you value the time you have to do other things and value your time at uni more. It was a good experience. And while she was there she did a lot, she helped design for the women’s pret-a-porter collection, she moulaged a sleeve that the lady herself EMMA BURTON saw and spoke to Kayliegh and said she liked her sleeve and made the designers use it in the collection! WOW a bit of our very own University of Derby, Kayleigh Parks, you’ll be walking down the Alexander McQueen Pret-a-Porter collection! Other things that she did at McQueen involved being a Studio Assistant, sorting out photo shots, doing bits and bobs on CAD(which she said she feels much more confident in) and research for textiles fabrics and trimmings.

Well I got to say there’s a lot there to be packed into 3 months.  Whilst she was in London, she was staying in “The Hyelm Group” accommodation, which is like a cross between Uni halls and a youth hostel, she said she shared a room with another girl and that on its own was an experience and a new friend for life. Ok so anything after McQueen must be easy, right?

The next 6 months she worked for French Connection, this was also unpaid although she had £5 for food a day, that was a nice gesture. At French Connection she was the menswear design assistant; she worked on CAD a lot, and when she wasn’t working with CAD she would be assisting photo shoots, going to buyers events, and communicating with the international factories(must be a big job)  and also doing trend research. She also did a similar job at her next placement, working for Markus Lupfer, this was a 3 month placement in London still this time she was working with womenswear.  Kayleigh got to do the model casting for the photo shots, I’d love to tell one of the models that they were too skinny for the outfits, she would have been told off for that. She also organised the press for the fashion show and getting the designer into the media.

Speaking to Kayleigh really makes me want to do the DPP, its sounds so exciting, forgetting about the costs, it would really help me out too, as I don’t really know what I want to do when I graduate, and I think it would really help to merge my skills and make me stronger as a designer. Maybe the next person will change my mind and put me back in “no man’s land”, lets see what Alessandra Defalco can tell me.

Aless, did 4 placements through her year out, she went to John Lewis to pursue being a mens wear designer, she worked there for 3 months for 2 to 3 days a week. She got paid £500 per month. She also had a really cool experience working for a stylist called Susie  Couthard, they styled Natasha Bedingfield for her World tour, this was only a four day placement but she said she enjoyed it so much and it was a fun thing to do. Susie is her own company and they worked one on one with Natasha, Susie Kindly paid for Aless train fair and she stayed in a hostel whilst working there. Before working on that cool placement she worked for Jacey Withers. Jacey Withers is a jewellery company that makes one off pieces, that is bold and individual but still highly sophisticated. A company that is based in London, and has a wide celebrity fan range, Dannii Minogue, SugarBabes and Kelis are just a few to name. Aless got to work helping the design process.

The DPP Evening was a lovely event, professional but fun at the same time, I really enjoyed listening to the third year’s time out and what they have learnt. I am still unsure on what I would like to do next year, I suppose like some of the third years I was talking to said it was a really spontaneous thing, they found out they got their placement a month before starting back at uni and decided to take the DPP year. I shall apply to a few places I think I do a spontaneous decision when the time comes!

Tuesday, 6 November 2012

How to Make My Dress

How to make my dress;
Draw a basic close fitting dress block off
Drop and extend the darts
Add flare from the waist to the knee
Trace off side panels and add flare to them, equal amounts
Trace off all the the pattern pieces, add 1cm seam allowance and notch in appropriate places

Cut out fabrics, press all the pieces
Over lock the side seams appart from the gathered panels.
Gather the side panels first, and then top stitch and overlock the sides to make sure the gathers stay in place.
Lock Stitch all the seams together
Sew Zips in
Overlock and Lock stitch Shoulder Seams
Over Lock armholes
Sew side seams together
Make lining;
Cut out fabrics, no need to over lock these pieces, they won't be seen.
Lock stitch all the side seams together
Then lock stitch the shoulders
Put your lining the right way round into the dress, so that the seams on both pieces are facing each other.
Sew neckline together
Then Lockstitch the armholes together, and stay stitch the seam to the lining
Sew the zip holes to the zips
Make a hole in the lining in a side seam, over lock the sides of the hole.
Pin your hemm up and press it so its easier to sew
Go into the hole and sew the hem in place
Go out of the hole and hand stitch it together

Thursday, 1 November 2012

The Identity for my toile in my last post, has now bwwn decided as i am working this project backwards!
So all you straight figured girls out there, if you fancy some curves, this dress is perfect for you, enhanceing your body and giving an optical illusion that you are a curvey women. I am thinking it is going to be for a women from the age of 18- 24, it is day wear for when you are chilling with your friends, at the cinema and or at the pub? It is a very cosy dress with the lining so would be perfect for the autumn and spring weather. You could proberbly find this kind of dress in the consessions stand like Pins and Needles, at Urban Outfitters.

Monday, 22 October 2012

The Kate Moss Book Party


You know they are a SUPER super brand and star when a big name design like, i donno, Marc Jacobs threws you a party for your book release!
The Part was held at Mayfair Book Shop, which Marc Jacobs owns, and people of the VIP celeb list like Liberty Ross, Florence Welch, Stella McCartney, Alison Mosshart, Boy George, Noel Gallagher, Cara Delevingne, Virginia Bates and Edie Campbell attended the party.
The Book is of all Kate Moss' photos as a supermodel, from day one to present, cut outs the lot!
I wonder if this photo will be in the book, or a photo of her with one of the 76 cocktails she had that night, wow! But know one can lie, she looks amazing in that Gold Dress.

http://www.vogue.co.uk/spy/celebrity-photos/2012/11/16/the-kate-moss-book-party

Wednesday, 17 October 2012

Mum?!




The word "Mum" came from mens slang in the early 19th Century. Men used to call there wifes morons, because they sat around the house doing nothing, there slang word for morons was mum!
Womens Roles in the 1950's



"Any time we girls have to go to work the reult, historically, is that we do things better than the oppisite sex. I mean gentlemen will go to all the trouble of keeping office hours and holding Board Meetings and getting Mr Gallup to make a poll, and sending their Public Relations agents to Washington, in order to reach a decision which any blonde could reach while was refurbishing her lipstick " Anita Loos, 'Decline and Fall of Blondes' Vogue 1951

Saturday, 13 October 2012

Lectre Systeme

Electronic Pattern Cutting, its amazing, imaging if you had to send your pattern pieces and tech file to a manufacturer in China, or India. Well you can just email it now!

To turn the board on, click on the left bottom corner, the light will flash. Click a button on the mouse to connect the two together, to know if they are connected, the light will continously flash.

Put your pattern pieces on the board, horizontally, the neck line towards the window, and place all pieces on in a clockwise manner around the board. Use masking tape to keep the pieces on.

To connect the lectre board to the computer, go to the lectre icon, click it and click the drop down, and select com1.

To find the programme go to start, programms, lectre and chose modaris.

Thursday, 11 October 2012

Whats Hot?!




So Military might be in fashion again, and some of us might hate it, but her are a few images that might change your mind;
 
 
Have you tried Baroque yet? Such a nice trend that has been inspired from the 17th century trend. Its for fashion conscious person at Christmas, the dress would make a great christmas party dress.
 

Baroque to calm for you, how about the clashing prints, this is a personal favourite of mine, you can dress it up in many ways, feminime, androdgody, and totally clash for a cool chic look.

How to wear Clashing Prints

Sunday, 7 October 2012

Mis-Achievement

A visiting Artit to my Uni the other day, came to talk to us about what a success she has become since graduating from The University of Derby. Her name, Anoinette Burchill, https://twitter.com/MisAchievement. What she had to say was cool, but i didn't really understan it, it was to do with the theatre and street performances, and she was using that kind of lingo. So as a fashion student it went over my head, so I used my skills and sussed her out by what she was wearing.
The atmosphere in the room when I walked in was excitement but chilled, The Runaway Boys were on in the background and Antoinette was swaying along until everyone was seated. She was wearing a 1950's rockability dress from pulp, such a cool dress. It was black, with red and pink flowers on, but with a contemporary print over the top of naked posed women. She had styled herself with a Black fitted jacket with a pleat over the bum, and she had a top hat on that sat proptly on her wavy hair it had a pink feather on the side.

Her company mis-achievement, is an achievement that was created my mischief. A Quirky Mayhem!

She began to tell us a story of how she got so interested in mischief art. When she was younger, she made a cupcake, not an ordinary one, she made it out of a cleaning sponge, she cut it into the shape of a cup cake, put it into a cake case and put iceing on it and a cherry. She then gave it to her dad to see what he thought.... I would so like to know what happened next! Well She became succesful!

Wednesday, 3 October 2012

British Icons in Design


Wow! This has to be one of my most favourite photographs , especially of a Fashion Show!


Viktor and Rolf
Love the whackyness of these designers, they keep pushing the bar higher!









Alexander Mc Queen
A huge influence to the world! He didn't stand brittian up on fashion, a true genius and proving that britain is full of unique and creative people!



2012 Alexander McQueen Spring Collection 588x427 Alexander McQueen Spring 2012 Collection



Christopher Kane



Vivianne Westwood





Charlotte Taylor